Spa Radiance

Umansky asked herself, "what if I use everything I have to get the cells going, everything that activates skin generation, instead of just massaging the skin and removing blackheads? What if I focus on accelerating skin growth?" And that's the gist of the three-hour service which may have more acts than Wagner's Ring Cycle.

The facial typically begins with a deep cleansing and a mild Rhonda Allison lactic-acid peel, a milk-based peel that Umansky likes because it doesn't remove live cells. Next the skin is exfoliated with a coarse diamond-tipped microdermabrasion wand. This activates the cellular-replacement process, as well as helping to clear congestion, even our skin tone, and diminish the appearance of fine lines.

With the skin circulation revved up, microcurrents are applied to the face to stimulate and lift the muscles - a kind of facial physical therapy. "These muscles are never worked out," notes Umansky, "and everybody runs to Botox for a falling face. But this can help make muscles stronger." So immediate are the results that the aestheticians refer to the device as the facial remodeling machine. (The machine is also used for the repulsive-sounding disincrustation process, in which pores are cajoled into giving up excess sebum.)

From here, the spa tailors the Gand Luxe service to the client's visage, with the therapist culling the most appropriate cleansing balms, skin-balancing masks, serums, and eye creams from various product lines. These include Biologique Recherche ("not a froufrou line," says Umansky) and the spa's own range, Koja, which means "skin" in Russian. (Umansky emigrated from Moscow in 1974.)

Spas rarely permit their aestheticians such freedom, as treatment protocols usually mandate exclusive use of skincare line that underwrites a spa. But Umansky is staunchly pro-choice and trains her staff to be the same. "I want them off the facial formula and able to diagnose and treat skin problems."

Umansky notes that during the Grand Luxe treatment the aesthetician works nonstop. The script also calls for a deep lymphatic-drainage facial, dcollet massage, foot rub, and hand exfoliation (with pumpkin enzymes) and moisturization.

The finale includes a caviar eye treatment with oxygenating mist spray, a rich caviar mask that gives skin a gorgeous glow and time in front of the LED machine. For me however, Umansky substituted a green-tea mask for the caviar mask, unthinkingly applied, had once caused a major breakout.)

As for the $750 question, my answer is twofold. Given the glow my face wore after the treatment - and retained for several weeks thereafter - I'd certainly be a client if I were in a Pacific Heights tax bracket. But even on a magazine editor's salary, I'd go for the $350 Mini Luxe.